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Create a Pond for Wildlife

Where: Anywhere except

  • Within a protected area, a designated habitat or where it may impact an archaeological monument.
  • In-stream or connected to waterways – this requires official permissions.
  • In an area already rich in biodiversity such as a species-rich wildflower meadow, mature woodland, marshy wetland or active peatland.
  • Where it would create a flood risk to a neighbour.
  • An area over shaded by trees or walls.
  • Over pipes or cables (check from your utility providers)

When: Anytime. However, digging will be difficult if ground is too wet or frozen.

How:

1. Plan your pond

  • Identify a clean water source – e.g. rainwater, groundwater, roof runoff, field runoff or farm drains. Note: If runoff is not clean, filtering through a wetland buffer zone may be required (refer to further information section below). Avoid tap water as it is chlorinated or use tap water that’s been left for several days for the gases to dissipate.
  • Plan the size – larger the better but any size pond will provide a valuable habitat. Ponds funded by The Hare’s Corner project are a minimum of 25 square metres.
  • Plan the shape – dish-shaped (mostly shallow with a small deeper area) with undulating, shallow edges as majority of pondlife prefers shallow water and it makes it easier for insects, birds and frogs to enter and leave.
  • Plan the depth – wildlife ponds need be no more than 60-80cm deep (planning permission is needed to dig deeper than 100cm).
  • Decide if you need a liner – If you have heavy clayey soils with high groundwater or supply of clean water – you won’t need a liner. If you are on gravelly, free draining soils, or solely relying on rainfall as water source, liner will be required to hold water. If in doubt, dig test holes to check. (For liner options read further info section below, but thumb rule – more water input you have, the less robust your liner can be.)
  • Locating your pond close to other habitats and cover increases their connectivity and value to wildlife

2. Get digging! – Use your shovel or arrange a digger

  • Remove the topsoil (first 12 -25 cm of soil) and use elsewhere on the land.
  • Excavate the subsoil to the required depth, building an embankment around the pond margin
  • If the subsoil is relatively impermeable, compact the base well. Alternatively use a liner. For liner options see ‘further info’ links below.
  • To protect your liner from tree roots or sharp rocks, consider laying pond fleece under the liner. Replace 10 – 15 cm of nutrient poor, subsoil over your liner after laying as exposure to sun will cause the liner to deteriorate over time.
  • Replace loose subsoil or topsoil on the pond edge and perimeter for plant establishment.
  • Let it fill naturally or fill with stored rainwater. If neither option available, use tap water that’s been left for several days for the gases to dissipate.

Caring for your pond: Allow plants to establish naturally in and around the pond or plant with locally sourced plants. Adding logs, stones or branches around the edges can provide a ‘ramp’ or perching places for wildlife. Don’t worry about seasonal variation in water levels as this has benefits to wildlife also (however small ponds may need topping up occasionally with stored rainwater). Hand-remove invasive plants like common reed and bulrush if they are completely taking over open water. Most importantly don’t overthink it – give it a try, observe, enjoy and learn from your experience!

Benefits: Ponds are great for wildlife and by providing one of the key needs of nature – water – can really boost biodiversity. They provide water for drinking and bathing, habitat for aquatic plants, invertebrates, frogs and newts, and will draw a wide variety of other wildlife.

Further info